Sunday, February 25, 2007


Kay King Interview: Houston, Texas




Above Photo: Left, Kay King and Right, Jennifer Jackson
Houston Community College, 11am, January 29, 2007



Written by Jennifer Jackson, New York



On Monday, January 28th, I had the wonderful privilege of meeting and talking with Fashion Extraordinaire, Mrs. Kay King. The director and creator of the fashion program at Houston Community College is also taking the reigns as the Costume Society of America's current president. A long time friend of my mother's, Mrs. King invited my mom and I to come for a chat and to tour her fashion department at HCC. During our visit, I came to learn that Kay has had an amazing career in the fashion industry in Houston. She graduated with a design degree at the University of North Texas, going on to work first in Ready to Wear at Kay Bro. She told me that there were some struggles at the beginning of her career in RTW. During college, her study focus was concentrated on couture technique, but when she began her profession, she faced issues crossing over from couture to RTW. She remembered a pattern, describing the parts as "these two huge pieces," and when her boss saw excess amounts of draping fabric on her skirt design, he saw excess dollar signs! Needless to say, she learned quickly to adapt to her new arena, moving on to make many strides along her career path. Her credits also include costume designer for the Derek Dolls (cheerleaders for the former Houston Oilers); costumes for Six Flag's Astroworld Theme Park; and designer at Joe Frank Sportswear in petites and sold at notable luxury retailers such as Sak's Fifth Avenue.

In Kay's career, all of her fabulous feats revealed themselves to her, as she put it "they always fell in my lap." This was a sign to me, as I have been telling myself that I need to trust my instincts and let the opportunities for my career reveal themselves to me, I took this as assurance from a wise woman. Her mentoring has been invaluable to so many in Houston and abroad. While Kay decided that she wanted to stay in Houston for her career and have a family, she has become an essential force in catapulting Texas based fashion career hopefuls in the direction of their dreams.

As a role model to many in the fashion world, Kay has given wings to aspiring designers including winner of Project Runway's second season Chloe Dao! Prior to Chloe's education at FIT, she was a student of Kay's in Houston where she now designs and owns a boutique, Lot 8. It was a real pleasure to spend time talking to this accomplished woman. Using her unique perspective and own industry experience, Mrs. King created a fashion program that has allowed students to learn essential skills important for success in their future careers. Offering classes everywhere from the standard apparel construction to unique "French for Fashion," Kay looks back on it all recalling that in 1981 she had been asked to come develop HCC's program. She stayed to teach one course, but was afraid to leave because she didn't want anyone to alter her vision; she's been there every since. I believe that Kay King's true passion for fashion and design indicates the real basis for success in this industry.




Friday, February 16, 2007

New York Fashion Week Fall 2007: Doo.Ri




Photo by Peter Duhon
Bryant Park, New York
Visit the FC photo gallery: Doo.Ri Show


written by Jennifer Jackson, New York

This collection embodied chic sophistication. Unfortunately, I was not able to see the show well, as my take comes from the screen right outside of the Promenade at Bryant Park. So, at best I can offer an overview of the styles and silhouettes that smartly strutted down Doo-Ri's Fall 2007 runway.

Known for her architecturally constructed designs, Doo-Ri draped silk layers, combined with fur and leathers into structures that drew me to want to inspect more closely. I was impressed and intrigued by the shapes of the collection. The basic directional shape I found to be based from a hexagonal top proportion and lengthening rectangular bottom. I think this is quite wonderful as I feel that most designers have a hard time branching out from shapes with less dimension. The designer worked with bias cut bubble hems that have been pretty much over-explored in the last few seasons, but this didn't turn me off. The swishing hems and layers were feminine, marvelous, not overdone, and have I mentioned Chic? Touches of lace embellishment, and black sequin accents made collars and undershirts pop. Slight twists and knotted fabrics flattered the woman figure, and tiny pleats and gathers at the hem opened fascinated eyes.

I loved many of the dresses in this collection, and I know wearing any of them would instantly make me feel glorious. Now, this is one designer that is undoubtedly impressive!

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

MICHON SCHUR: NEW YORK FALL FASHION WEEK 2007




written by Sonia Bhalla, New York

The Michon Schur collection transported its audience to a Japanese garden, one dotted with lovely cherry blossom trees. L.A.-based designer, Stephanie Schur, showed a collection that was flowy, sweet, and delightful. She used light materials, such as chiffon, but also incorporated some heavier fabrics, including wool. Her palette of colors was infused with fuscia and various shades of purple, white, grey and black. Her main accessory boasted a light, gauzy headscarf, which might not keep one warm during the cold winter months but completed the look--hey, that's fashion, right? The clothes showed a sense of architecture. Some pieces were detailed with pleats and ruffles, and though the collection was mainly focused on dresses and skirts, even these were paired with a few wide-legged pants. Schur also threw in some glam as evinced by a black coat with star-like beaded clusters. Overall, the clothes showed a level of sophistication: west coast elegance with an element of Japanese inspiration.

Tuesday, February 13, 2007

JL by Jacques Lorette

Label and Launch Party and Reception
Tuesday, February 6, at the Night Hotel



By this point, Fashion week had begun to wear on me, but I made my way over to the Night Hotel to see what Jacques Lorette was all about. I had received an invite through a friend for this event and had thought it would be a runway show. Post two pomegranate martinis, I came to find that it was a launch party. A group of social models walked through the gathered crowd with the spring 2007 "JL by Jacques Lorette" Bleeding Heart t-shirt collection.

A young designer and graduate of Cornell University, Jacques is a promising entrepreneur, with much experience already under her design belt. She has been working independently, but after browsing her website, it looks like she would do well designing at a luxury design house. My opinion, I think she has the potential of making a presence in the New York Fashion World. As many of you know, it takes time and substantial experiences and recognition breaks to make it in the competitive fashion design world, usually 10 years is the marker. Jacques, keep it up, and I look forward to seeing runway shows from you in the future.

Friday, February 09, 2007

Jordi Scott Show: New York Fashion Week

This summary is not available. Please click here to view the post.

Thursday, February 08, 2007

Toni Maticevski: New York Fashion Week Fall 2007




Photo by Peter Duhon
Bryant Park, The Promenade, 12pm, Feb 3, 2007
Visit the FC photo gallery:
Toni Maticevski Photos


written by Jennifer Jackson, New York


I must admit, Australian native, Toni Maticevski, captivated me with his fashion design logistics. In this show season world of dark, luxurious textiles, and punctuations of color, Maticevski's take demonstrated individuality. The runway collection revealed a perplexing combination of artistic draping, a myriad of fabrics from nylon to fur, and construction techniques varying from princess seaming to thick quilting. This vast range of applications can only suggest an inventive talent capable of lasting success in today's fashion arena.

Maticevski cut wool, viscose, and thick brocades into unsuspecting fluidity. I personally liked the human sleeping bag dresses in bright yellow and red that interluded more body conscious evening pieces. For me, the more outlandish the better, if it works, and this time I really thought that it did. Especially with this New York weather at below 10 degrees, I yearn for a comfy quilt dress. I love the idea of women floating around town wearing smartly tucked and belted quilt frocks with sheen!

I also thought that Toni's use of silk chiffon was very sexy. The basic patterns built off of a radial point from center chest, I found that the more fluid and lighter fabric executions were more desirable. With great attention to the female body and feminine sexuality, it was of little surprise to find that Toni's main inspiration for this line was turn of the century French Salons.

My main plus to this show: A take home mix of the runway music mixed with the help of the designer himself.

Tuesday, February 06, 2007

Rag and Bone: New York Fashion Week Fall 2007


written by Jennifer Jackson, New York

Gotham Hall, 8pm, February 02, 2007



photo by Jenny J.
link to FC Rag and Bone photo gallery:Rag and Bone



The Friday night Rag and Bone show was clad with paper girls and old-schoolhipster boys, and it was (as one model said), "Absolutely Fabulous!" Overall,the designs were austere, in bleak colors, and with exceptional attention tofine construction. Still heavy on stove pipe jeans and mod dresses, Rag andBone's forward statement was made with high stand up collars and tuxedo trimmedpants. Extremely wearable, I see this line making a huge statement in thehigh-end contemporary market for Fall.

The show space, Gotham Hall, was both breath-taking and majestic.RadioHeadsongs from the album Amnesiac and a candle lit arena imposed a dream-likereality over the crowd. We nearly knocked over two motorcycles blocking theentry way when entering the space, oops, so I assume this was to add to theseverity of the collection's aesthetic.

Thick cottons and thin wools displayed with plaids, solids, and an assortment oflush fall textiles showed a great focus on the concept of season. I loved thestyling in this show done by Natasha Royt. Tall leather leg gaiters thatbuttoned up the side of the leg were worn with black tights and black platformsandals. The men wore thick work boots with metal detailing, and chains dangledfrom garments where necessary. My favorite piece was the black wool piped Camdendress worn with the black leather gaiters. A simple look, but I thought theblouson sleeves and covered buttons worked well with the white seam piping, andcomplimented other grungy tuxedo looks.

We'll be seeing the fall Rag and Bone collection atSak's,I suspect, and also at fashion forward boutiques such asFactoryPeople in Austin, Texas.

Here's a link to the photographs I took during theshow:Rag & Bone pictures.

For Now,
Jenny


Monday, February 05, 2007

Lacoste: New York Fashion Week Fall 2007


written by Jennifer Jackson, New York

Bryant Park in The Tent, 11am, Februrary 03, 2007



What a fun feeling to come racing into the Tent at Bryant Park and know the speckled faces in the crowd. As I just completed a 4 month span with the merchandising department at Lacoste-USA, this show was a real treat for me. For the past few months, I was working extensively with the Fall 2007 line. I may even know the line better than I know my own closet, fabric content, price, style, and all.

The venue was packed, the US CEO, Bob Segal, in humble attendance, sat next to the front of the runway. New Vice President, Bob Pecore shook hands with attendees. Audience members were decked out in cable knit sweaters and Crocodile logos. The runway was lit with soft amber, the catwalk sprinkled with fall leaves. A vintage car protruded from the back drop and (of course) a crocodile was projected on the back drop in a bright amber outline. The ultimate Lacoste Heritage-Classic Fall ambiance and the show had not yet begun.

Lights dropped, music came up, an eerie yet bright whistling tune played, amber spotlights, and the first model stepped out. The show was split into 4 themes. I can identify them by their "delivery" names as the Lacoste company defines them. First Quimper, a collection defined with distinct stripes, puffy shawl coats, and patent leather rain gear. True blue, red, white, and strong accents of navy, maroon, yellow, and black characterized the color story. The men's and women's runway looks made me think of young people keeping dry and warm in a subtly fashionable manner. The subtlety feeling being very French!! The delivery name, Quimper, comes from a small yachting town on the coast of France and emphasizes the derived design inspiration. A major trend for fall that was shown here were over sized puffer jackets, the Lacoste take, basic colors with metallic sheen and cinched waists. Skinny leg jeans, stripes, and protective outerwear stood out. The silhouette: Over sized and accentuated bodies with elongated thin legs. You won't see much of these designs in stores in the US, only a set or two of the striped color way long sleeve polos, some navy rain coats, and maybe a puffy shawl collar coat. Head designer, Christophe Lemaire's favorite polo this season is a Quimper style.

The next section of the show revealed the fashion/collegiate designs of "Georgetown." Named after the Washington D.C. university and surrounding neighborhood, Georgetown used a lot of baby corduroy. Cord pants, coats, and overalls, were polished and casual. Again, lots of outerwear, precise use of accent design with slight embellishment and color. You will not see any overalls in US distribution, but will see many styles from this collection in stores beginning in July, I believe.

Then came my favorite, "Sorbonne." With a blast of Air, the band not the element, a dark energetic track from The Virgin Suicides interluded the whistling tune. Not only my favorite, but I believe Sorbonne will be the most well received in the market. The inspiration here, the renowned Paris University, the look and activity of its students. Accessorized with books, and school bags, Sorbonne contained many trench and blazer variations, Striped and solid sweaters. I felt a sensation of desire overcome me, and a real identification of the Lacoste customer finally made sense to me: young women and men with intelligence and ambition, innate understanding of dress and an outer nonchalant beauty. Dark, nearly black green and mother of pearl cream dominated the designs. Lusciously draped sweaters and knits in greys, greens, solids and stripes personified the collection. For fall, everyone will want the Striped knit tunic dress sweater for women. In a high gauge knit weave, the dress is versatile and chic. A move from traditional Lacoste but maintaining a look of sophistication and class.

Other catwalk looks were one piece jumpsuits in ultra-suede, equestrian style skirts reminiscent of the 1930s and 40s adorned with wide flat brimmed hats a la Marguerite Duras' book The Lover. A LOT of outerwear, trenches, blazers, puffer coats, and more. Sweaters with a new interpretation of the Lacoste Logo, a collegiate 1950's embroidery. Argyle sweaters and scarves, Cable knit sweaters in varying textile designs, thick and thin. By in large, the portrayal of young sophistication relished in the companies roots, not only an outsiders understanding of the seasonal look, but an important aspect of all business strategy at Lacoste.

After the show, I ran into Vice President of Merchandising, Daniella Borcresion, and had the chance to hear her reaction. While she thought the shows aesthetic was nice, she felt that more of a cross-over from design to the actual market should have occurred. While the show stayed true to head designer, Christophe Lemaire's design vision, it did not consider the consumer product as it is sold and purchased. Still, as she was leaving the venue, I caught her final words: "But I loved the long Cape! Very Hermes!"

So, don't be fooled, the Lacoste polo and staple look of past decades is here to stay. However, the apparent freshness in design direction is not only assuring to the fashion crowd, but wonderful for the brand image. What I love most about a French fashion show is that it evokes a definite feeling, portrays a story, and moves its crowd through set, lighting, and design all working together. Perhaps the runway is not in sync with the Lacoste selling floor, but it sure told a captivating story.


Later, Jenny




Sunday, February 04, 2007

New York Fall Fashion Week Interview and Preview: Jordi Scott


written by Sonia Bhalla, New York



Fashion Week! Fashion Week is here! And one always hears the buzz weeks in advance. Who’s showing what this season? Who will attend whose show? And of course, who will be debuting this season? Well I do not know who will be showing what, or who will be attending what show, but I do know of a certain someone who will be debuting her line INFAMOUS!

I had the pleasure of sitting down with the designer, Jordi Scott and her business partner Starr to discuss their debut of their line, and the start of their company. This duo of dazzling, dynamic women tell a story of a company that has been created out of spontaneity, and determination. We were sitting at cafe Sip on the Upper West Side, enjoying the free tapas, and nice warm coffee as they started telling me how the partnership came to be. Both started to smile and chuckle a bit. Supposedly it was one of those nights, where both had a fair amount to drink and on a whim decided to start a fashion company together. Their business plan was chalked out in one week and as people usually say:"the rest is history!". Jordi has the design talent, and Starr has the savvy business mind.

So what can one expect from INFAMOUS? The line reflects Jordi and Starr's outlook on life and their personalities. Fun, edgy, versatile, glamorous -- dressing to get noticed. They just want to bring fun back into fashion, something which they feel is lacking in the marketplace -- something that is fun, daring, something with pizazz. But above all, their number one mission is to produce well constructed clothing at an affordable price. They want to create pieces that will stay in one's closet for more than just one season. It seems to me these days, that clothes can be so frivolous and dainty and there is more weight on the cheapest cost of a product for a company as opposed to the detail of construction. As a result, quality is compromised. But Jordi and Starr are determined to make quality fashion, even if it means that they do not make as much profit as their competitors as they are manufacturing their pieces locally in the US and not sourcing from overseas, as most companies do.

So even though I have not seen any of the clothing, or even have the slightest idea of what colors, or sillhouettes I might be seeing tomorrow evening at the runway show which will be held at Arena here in Manhattan, just one block away from the official New York Fashion Week site, Bryant Park, Jordi and Starr are such magnificent people, that one would just naturally want to go and see their show. It makes one curious, what a former Betsey Johnson designer/t-shirt designer and a global nomad/japanese street fashion fan will come up with for their first show! Here online at Fashion Comments, I will let you know my thoughts on their debuting show, so check back for more details.




Friday, February 02, 2007

New York Fashion Week Fall: Saturday Preview





written by Jennifer Jackson, New York

With Saturday comes a long awaited day! I will attend the Lacoste show at 11am and then Toni Maticevski at noon. New York will be welcoming international fashion designers for both shows. First (and very exciting) Christophe Lemaire, in from Paris, will direct the Lacoste runway. These designs I am already familiar with, BUT can't wait to see the runway impact. I will give you the entire down-low after viewing the show, letting you in on an insider point of view.

At noon it's Toni Maticevski. The Australian native is a new name to me, but from what I have seen and read, his design vision is forward, inventive, and refreshing. I look forward to feeling an understanding of his designs from the runway. I promise to interpret Maticevski's catwalk with honesty and completeness.

Later, for now!





New York Fashion Week Preview: Primping for the Main Events




written by Jennifer Jackson, NY


Like many others, I'm preparing, Waiting...Longing...Anticipating...Tapping my pen anxiously on an open notebook page. Hooking up with designers, making sure my name is on the list, hoping I'll get to more shows than are currently jotted into my calendar. That's right, I'm a Marc Jacobs hopeful (Crossing my fingers and saying my prayers, but I know it won't be until next year).

It's that time again, Fashion Week, and I'm pretty sure that my intuition is correct about the highly anticipated unveiling of the newest trends. But, that's just me, you've got to maintain a bit of confidence in this haughty fashion world. I haven't prepared my outfits, have not coordinated any jewelery with new shoes, because I wear the same symbolic jewelry every day of my life, that's what gets me through the days, that's my life. BUT, I can't wait to see all of the fashionistas that crowd the velvet rope lines, CAN'T Wait! Those people always evoke a certain level of anxiety in me, and that's the way it has to be to, it's like a part of the check list when producing a fashion show: Crowd uncertain wavering of self-inferiority? Check. Oh, but don't worry! They only allow that feeling long enough for it to stir up your complex before they pack you into the arena. They want the space full past the maximum, stuffed so that the media will portray their designer as more popular than the other one in the tent over there.

Oh Fashion Week...and I've been to quite a few. Los Angeles, Paris, New York, all slightly different, with their own quirks, but all relative. All of them exciting, ego boosting, and fun, especially when you know where to find the fun. More about the viewers or more about the designers? It goes both ways.

I myself am very excited about the coming days. As with any day in New York, I am not quite sure what will happen tomorrow, but I do know that I will be giving you feedback and coverage of some sure to be interesting shows. More to come on those, so please, stay tuned!