Lacoste: New York Fashion Week Fall 2007
written by Jennifer Jackson, New York
Bryant Park in The Tent, 11am, Februrary 03, 2007
What a fun feeling to come racing into the Tent at Bryant Park and know the speckled faces in the crowd. As I just completed a 4 month span with the merchandising department at Lacoste-USA, this show was a real treat for me. For the past few months, I was working extensively with the Fall 2007 line. I may even know the line better than I know my own closet, fabric content, price, style, and all.
The venue was packed, the US CEO, Bob Segal, in humble attendance, sat next to the front of the runway. New Vice President, Bob Pecore shook hands with attendees. Audience members were decked out in cable knit sweaters and Crocodile logos. The runway was lit with soft amber, the catwalk sprinkled with fall leaves. A vintage car protruded from the back drop and (of course) a crocodile was projected on the back drop in a bright amber outline. The ultimate Lacoste Heritage-Classic Fall ambiance and the show had not yet begun.
Lights dropped, music came up, an eerie yet bright whistling tune played, amber spotlights, and the first model stepped out. The show was split into 4 themes. I can identify them by their "delivery" names as the Lacoste company defines them. First Quimper, a collection defined with distinct stripes, puffy shawl coats, and patent leather rain gear. True blue, red, white, and strong accents of navy, maroon, yellow, and black characterized the color story. The men's and women's runway looks made me think of young people keeping dry and warm in a subtly fashionable manner. The subtlety feeling being very French!! The delivery name, Quimper, comes from a small yachting town on the coast of France and emphasizes the derived design inspiration. A major trend for fall that was shown here were over sized puffer jackets, the Lacoste take, basic colors with metallic sheen and cinched waists. Skinny leg jeans, stripes, and protective outerwear stood out. The silhouette: Over sized and accentuated bodies with elongated thin legs. You won't see much of these designs in stores in the US, only a set or two of the striped color way long sleeve polos, some navy rain coats, and maybe a puffy shawl collar coat. Head designer, Christophe Lemaire's favorite polo this season is a Quimper style.
The next section of the show revealed the fashion/collegiate designs of "Georgetown." Named after the Washington D.C. university and surrounding neighborhood, Georgetown used a lot of baby corduroy. Cord pants, coats, and overalls, were polished and casual. Again, lots of outerwear, precise use of accent design with slight embellishment and color. You will not see any overalls in US distribution, but will see many styles from this collection in stores beginning in July, I believe.
Then came my favorite, "Sorbonne." With a blast of Air, the band not the element, a dark energetic track from The Virgin Suicides interluded the whistling tune. Not only my favorite, but I believe Sorbonne will be the most well received in the market. The inspiration here, the renowned Paris University, the look and activity of its students. Accessorized with books, and school bags, Sorbonne contained many trench and blazer variations, Striped and solid sweaters. I felt a sensation of desire overcome me, and a real identification of the Lacoste customer finally made sense to me: young women and men with intelligence and ambition, innate understanding of dress and an outer nonchalant beauty. Dark, nearly black green and mother of pearl cream dominated the designs. Lusciously draped sweaters and knits in greys, greens, solids and stripes personified the collection. For fall, everyone will want the Striped knit tunic dress sweater for women. In a high gauge knit weave, the dress is versatile and chic. A move from traditional Lacoste but maintaining a look of sophistication and class.
Other catwalk looks were one piece jumpsuits in ultra-suede, equestrian style skirts reminiscent of the 1930s and 40s adorned with wide flat brimmed hats a la Marguerite Duras' book The Lover. A LOT of outerwear, trenches, blazers, puffer coats, and more. Sweaters with a new interpretation of the Lacoste Logo, a collegiate 1950's embroidery. Argyle sweaters and scarves, Cable knit sweaters in varying textile designs, thick and thin. By in large, the portrayal of young sophistication relished in the companies roots, not only an outsiders understanding of the seasonal look, but an important aspect of all business strategy at Lacoste.
After the show, I ran into Vice President of Merchandising, Daniella Borcresion, and had the chance to hear her reaction. While she thought the shows aesthetic was nice, she felt that more of a cross-over from design to the actual market should have occurred. While the show stayed true to head designer, Christophe Lemaire's design vision, it did not consider the consumer product as it is sold and purchased. Still, as she was leaving the venue, I caught her final words: "But I loved the long Cape! Very Hermes!"
So, don't be fooled, the Lacoste polo and staple look of past decades is here to stay. However, the apparent freshness in design direction is not only assuring to the fashion crowd, but wonderful for the brand image. What I love most about a French fashion show is that it evokes a definite feeling, portrays a story, and moves its crowd through set, lighting, and design all working together. Perhaps the runway is not in sync with the Lacoste selling floor, but it sure told a captivating story.
Later, Jenny
